Below is an introduction to botanical dyeing based on a handout from one of my recent classes. It covers the basics including scouring, alum mordanting, plant layout, bundling, and steaming/simmering for botanical prints. You can see some of my botanical prints here. If you're interested in hosting a botanically dyeing / eco printing class, contact me.
Welcome to your introduction to botanical dyeing! This guide walks you through the basic workflow for dyeing protein fibers like silk and wool using natural plant material.
What you’ll be doing
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Scour (clean) your fiber
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Mordant (prepare it to hold color)
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Lay out your plant design
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Cover + bundle
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Steam/simmer, then rinse and finish
1) Scouring Protein Fiber (Silk & Wool)
Scouring is the essential process of cleaning your fibers before dyeing. It removes residues, oils, and impurities so the fiber can bond well with dye.
Silk
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Place the fabric in a large pot on the stove with a small amount of mild soap or a specialized textile detergent.
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Periodically stir the fabric for 30–40 minutes without boiling (boiling can damage silk fibers).
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Rinse thoroughly.
Wool
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Be very careful not to agitate the wool and keep the temperature consistent, or you may end up with felting.
Important: Use dedicated dye equipment only. It is not safe to later use the same pot/tools for cooking food.
2) Mordanting
Mordanting helps fix the dye to the fibers and supports more permanent, vibrant color. Different mordants can also shift the final hue.
Alum (Potassium Aluminum Sulfate) is the most common mordant for silk and wool.
Use approximately 15% of the weight of the fiber (WOF).
Process
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Dissolve the alum in warm water.
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Place the pre-wetted fibers into the solution and heat slowly to a gentle simmer.
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Let the fibers soak in this bath for about 1 hour, then allow to cool.
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After mordanting, you can leave the fiber in the solution overnight for deeper penetration, or proceed to rinsing and dyeing.
Important: Wearing gloves is essential to help protect your skin from the chemicals.
3) Design Layout
This is where your artistic touch shines through. You can add leaves, flowers, and resist techniques for interesting patterns.
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Start by wetting and wringing out your piece (using water or vinegar).
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Place the fabric on a thin piece of plastic at least twice the size of your piece.
Options
Direct Printing: Arrange fresh or dried leaves and flowers directly on your fabric.
Resist Techniques: Tie sections of the fabric with string or use clips to block dye from reaching certain areas.
Tip: Plant materials vary—some give strong prints while others are subtle. Experimentation is key!
4) Cover / Blanket
A cover or blanket helps hold plant material in place and distributes pressure evenly during steaming or simmering.
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Typically, a cotton or muslin cloth is used as a cover.
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Cosmetic paper towels can be an easier alternative because they’re simpler to manipulate on your own.
5) Bundling and Dyeing
Bundling helps ensure even pressure and good contact between plant material and fabric.
Step-by-step
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Fold and smooth: Fold the plastic over the piece and use a credit card to ensure even contact across the fabric.
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Roll: Roll the piece tightly around a length of garden hose.
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Tie: Use string to securely tie the bundle in place.
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Steam/Simmer: Using a pressure cooker or stove, steam your bundle for 90–120 minutes. Heat is essential to release color from the plant material.
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Wait: After steaming, allow the bundle to cool before unwrapping. Letting it sit overnight can enhance color development.
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Rinse and iron: Rinse thoroughly with mild detergent until water runs clear. Iron using the silk setting to bring back the sheen of the fabric.
Suggested Resources
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Maiwa — resources, supplies, and educational materials (including free courses)
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Botanical Colors — tutorials and supplies
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Dharma Trading — materials and information
Happy dyeing!
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